Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition
Author, reviser of the text and maps, and observer of changes on the Matterhorn.
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69
The author and narrator, recounting his alpine scrambles and ascents.
I: Introductory
Narrator and protagonist; recounts his first Alpine tour and a dangerous solo glacier crossing.
II: The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux
Narrator and protagonist; describes his first serious mountain scramble and encounters with locals.
The Mont Cenis—The Fell Railway—The Great Tunnel Through the Alps
Narrator and observer, travels through Mont Cenis and visits the tunnel works.
My First Scramble on the Matterhorn
Narrator and aspiring mountaineer, describes his first impressions of the Matterhorn and his search for guides.
Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn
Narrator and climber; makes a solo reconnaissance on the southwest ridge, reaching a record height before turning back.
The Val Tournanche—Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt (Breuiljoch)—Zermatt—Ascent of the Grand Tournalin
Narrator and protagonist; describes his return to Breuil, crossing of the Breuiljoch, and ascent of the Grand Tournalin.
VII: Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
Narrator and leader of the expedition, describes the climb and storm.
From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde
Narrator and leader of the expedition, reflecting on past attempts and planning the current route.
IX: The Ascent of the Pointe des Écrins
Narrator and leader of the expedition, describes the ascent and descent of the Écrins.
X: On the First Passage of the Col de Pilatte
Narrator and leader of the expedition; describes the planning, ascent, and perilous descent of the Col de Pilatte.
Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière
Narrator and climber, participates in ascents and surveys with Reilly.
XII: The Moming Pass—Zermatt
Narrator and leader of the expedition; advocates for a southern route but defers to Croz's plan, later regrets the dangerous ice-slope crossing.
XIII: The First Ascent of the Grand Cornier
Narrator and leader of the 1865 season; reflects on his mountaineering philosophy and route selection.
The Ascent of the Dent Blanche
Leader of the expedition; decides to attempt the Dent Blanche, navigates the ascent and descent, and later meets Kennedy.
Lost on the Col d'Hérens—My Seventh Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
Narrator and leader; proposed the new eastern-face route and made the decision to retreat when lost on the Col d'Hérens.
The Valley of Aosta, and Ascent of the Grandes Jorasses
Whymper presents his own observations and reasoning, arguing that the Valley of Aosta and other Alpine valleys were not excavated by glaciers but only slightly modified.
The First Passage of the Col Dolent
Leader and narrator; sketches the view while guides work; descends the icy staircase and joins the others.
XVIII: Ascent of the Aiguille Verte
Narrator and leader of the ascent of the Aiguille Verte.
XIX: The First Passage of the Col de Talèfre
Narrator and leader of the first passage of the Col de Talèfre.
XX: The First Ascent of the Ruinette—The Matterhorn
Narrator and leader of the expedition; plans the ascent of the Matterhorn via the east face.
The First Ascent of the Matterhorn
Leader of the expedition, describes the ascent and the emotional moment of reaching the summit.
Descent of the Matterhorn
Narrator and survivor; organizes descent, sketches summit, ties on last, witnesses fall, and reflects on tragedy.
Subsequent History of the Matterhorn
Describes revisiting the tent-platform in 1874, 1876, and 1892, noting its decay and the fall of the inscribed rock.
D: Table of Attempts Made to Ascend the Matterhorn Previous to the First Ascent
Made attempts 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, and 14, often alone or with guides.
E: Ascents of the Matterhorn
Participant in the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 and later ascent for photography in 1874.
G: Stratification of Snow and Formation of Glacier-Ice
Author and expedition leader; supervised the excavation, took measurements, and suffered snow-blindness.
H: Denudation in the Valley of the Durance
Narrator and observer; scrambles up to examine the pinnacles and deduces their glacial origin.
Endnotes
Author and narrator; reflects on his fall, memory loss, and botanical collections.
List of Illustrations
Author and central figure; many illustrations relate to his expeditions.
