Themes & patterns

Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn

The chapter repeatedly emphasizes the theme of persistence in the face of failure, as multiple climbers try again despite harsh conditions and previous defeats.

VII: Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn

Whymper's relentless pursuit of the summit despite repeated failures and dangerous conditions.

IX: The Ascent of the Pointe des Écrins

The party's relentless effort to summit the Écrins despite extreme ice, steep slopes, and dangerous conditions exemplifies the drive to conquer.

XIII: The First Ascent of the Grand Cornier

Whymper's relentless pursuit of the Grand Cornier and his systematic planning exemplify the theme of conquest through perseverance.

The Ascent of the Dent Blanche

Whymper and his team persist through extreme wind, cold, and technical difficulty to reach the summit ridge of the Dent Blanche.

The First Ascent of the Matterhorn

The successful ascent represents the triumph of human will over a previously unconquered peak, contrasting with Carrel's long but ultimately unsuccessful pursuit.

Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition

The death of Christian Almer and the precarious state of the Great Tower on the Matterhorn underscore the risks of mountaineering.

Frontispiece

The fog-bow is interpreted as an omen of the fatal accident that occurred later that day.

Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69

The constant risks of avalanches, crevasses, and falls that threaten the climbers.

I: Introductory

Whymper's desperate jump over a crevasse and his night lost in the forest highlight the constant physical peril of early Alpine exploration.

The Mont Cenis—The Fell Railway—The Great Tunnel Through the Alps

The chapter includes a table of fatal accidents in the tunnel and describes the risks faced by miners, especially from wagons and rockfalls.

My First Scramble on the Matterhorn

References the perilous nature of the mountain and the fate of guide J. J. Bennen, who later died in an avalanche.

Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition

Whymper documents new ascents, map revisions, and the exploration of the Furgg Ridge, highlighting ongoing discovery.

Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69

The chapter focuses on the first ascents and explorations of uncharted Alpine terrain.

I: Introductory

The chapter introduces Whymper's first encounters with the great peaks and his growing passion for mountain scrambling.

II: The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux

Whymper's first serious mountain scramble and the claim of a first ascent, despite later disputes.

My First Scramble on the Matterhorn

Whymper details the early attempts to conquer the Matterhorn, highlighting the spirit of exploration and the unknown.

The Val Tournanche—Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt (Breuiljoch)—Zermatt—Ascent of the Grand Tournalin

Whymper explores the Gouffre des Busserailles and the gorge below the Gorner Glacier, detailing their formation and features.

I: Introductory

Whymper struggles against the glacier, cliffs, and darkness, illustrating the theme of human endurance against natural forces.

II: The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux

The harsh, desolate landscape of the Val Louise, with boulders, debris, and extreme climate contrasts.

The Mont Cenis—The Fell Railway—The Great Tunnel Through the Alps

The tunnel represents humanity's struggle to overcome the formidable Alpine barrier, using technology to bore through the mountains.

My First Scramble on the Matterhorn

The Matterhorn's formidable cliffs and the repeated failures of climbers illustrate the struggle against a powerful natural force.

The Val Tournanche—Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt (Breuiljoch)—Zermatt—Ascent of the Grand Tournalin

Carrel's daring descent into the gouffre and the construction of a plank path demonstrate human ingenuity against natural obstacles.

From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde

The harsh, chaotic terrain of the Vallon des Étançons and the degradation of the valley illustrate the struggle against a wild and unforgiving environment.

Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69

The reliance on guides and fellow climbers for safety and success in dangerous conditions.

From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde

Whymper emphasizes the perfect combination of guides Croz and Almer, and the collaborative spirit among the party members.

IX: The Ascent of the Pointe des Écrins

The team relies on each other's skills and judgment, especially during the dangerous descent, where guides and climbers work in unison.

X: On the First Passage of the Col de Pilatte

The party works together on the rope, with Croz leading and Almer as last man, relying on each other's skill and caution in the mist.

Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière

The partnership between Whymper and Reilly, based on mutual support and shared goals, is a key element.

XII: The Moming Pass—Zermatt

The group's debate over routes and eventual unity in following Croz's plan, despite misgivings, illustrates the reliance on each other in dangerous situations.

Frontispiece

The Taugwalders' belief that the fog-bow was connected to the accident reflects local superstitions.

II: The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux

Interactions with suspicious locals, the priest who mistakes Whymper for a deserter, and the dialects of the region.

My First Scramble on the Matterhorn

Describes local beliefs about spirits and demons on the Matterhorn, contrasting with rational mountaineering ambitions.

XVIII: Ascent of the Aiguille Verte

Conflict with Chamounix guides who disputed the ascent and attempted to bully the foreign guides.

The Mont Cenis—The Fell Railway—The Great Tunnel Through the Alps

Whymper details the engineering principles of the Fell railway and the tunnel, including compressed air, hydraulic power, and geological predictions.

Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn

Whymper's detailed observations of rock quality, frost effects, and snow conditions reflect a scientific approach to mountaineering.

The Val Tournanche—Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt (Breuiljoch)—Zermatt—Ascent of the Grand Tournalin

Detailed geological analysis of water erosion vs. glacial erosion, including descriptions of marmites, polished surfaces, and roches moutonnées.

VII: Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn

Whymper analyzes the thunderstorm, echoes, and cloud formation, citing Arago and proposing causes for the cold downdrafts.

From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde

Whymper calculates the mean angle of the ascent and reflects on geological and environmental changes in the valley, citing Blanqui's scientific address.

Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière

Mr. Adams-Reilly's meticulous survey and mapping work exemplify scientific observation and precision.

Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition

Whymper reflects on changes in the mountain landscape and his own evolving understanding of routes and conditions.

Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière

Reilly's perseverance and skill under adverse conditions demonstrate personal growth and mastery.

XX: The First Ascent of the Ruinette—The Matterhorn

Whymper's reflections on the use of the rope and the value of experience in mountaineering.

Descent of the Matterhorn

Whymper reflects on the virtues of courage, patience, and fortitude gained through mountaineering, despite the tragedy.

Endnotes

Whymper's advice on tent construction, glissading technique, and rope management reflects the development of practical mountaineering skills.