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Travel Essays · Chapters

Chapters explained

Chapter companions for Travel Essays by Robert Louis Stevenson.

Each chapter has a companion in the reader — open a free preview to see notes beside the text.

  1. Chapter 1

    An Inland Voyage

    The chapter opens with a poetic epigraph from Marvell, setting a reflective tone for the journey ahead. It introduces the beginning of an inland voyage, likely by canoe, through the waterways of France, emphasizing the spirit of travel and discovery.

  2. Chapter 2

    To Sir Walter Grindlay Simpson, Bart.

    Stevenson dedicates the chapter to Sir Walter Grindlay Simpson, recalling their shared adventures and misadventures on the river, including the procurement and eventual loss of their canal barge, the Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne, and the subsequent sale of their boats, the Arethusa and the Cigarette.

  3. Chapter 3

    Preface to the First Edition

    In the preface, Stevenson humorously reflects on the act of writing a preface, comparing it to an architect showing off plans. He confesses his fear that his book may go unread and offers it as a light, unphilosophical work, thanking his traveling companion for at least being a reader.

  4. Chapter 4

    Antwerp to Boom

    The chapter describes the departure from Antwerp docks with the canoes Arethusa and Cigarette, the author's first experience sailing a canoe, reflections on courage and self-discovery, the journey up the Scheldt and Rupel rivers, and the arrival at Boom with its brickyards and the disappointing Hôtel de la Navigation.

  5. Chapter 5

    On the Willebroek Canal

    The travelers navigate the Willebroek Canal in rain and wind, observing the leisurely life of bargees and enduring a comically disastrous lunch ashore before paddling onward toward Brussels.

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  1. Chapter 6The Royal Sport Nautique
  2. Chapter 7At Maubeuge
  3. Chapter 8On the Sambre Canalised: To Quartes
  4. Chapter 9Pont-sur-Sambre: We Are Pedlars
  5. Chapter 10Pont-sur-Sambre: The Travelling Merchant
  6. Chapter 11On the Sambre Canalised: To Landrecies
  7. Chapter 12At Landrecies
  8. Chapter 13Sambre and Oise Canal: Canal Boats
  9. Chapter 14The Oise in Flood
  10. Chapter 15Origny Sainte-Benoîte: A By-Day
  11. Chapter 16Origny Sainte-Benoîte: The Company at Table
  12. Chapter 17Down the Oise: To Moy
  13. Chapter 18La Fère of Cursed Memory
  14. Chapter 19Down the Oise: Through the Golden Valley
  15. Chapter 20Noyon Cathedral
  16. Chapter 21Down the Oise: To Compiègne
  17. Chapter 22At Compiègne
  18. Chapter 23Changed Times
  19. Chapter 24Down the Oise: Church Interiors
  20. Chapter 25Précy and the Marionnettes
  21. Chapter 26Back to the World
  22. Chapter 27Epilogue to An Inland Voyage
  23. Chapter 28Edinburgh
  24. Chapter 29Introductory
  25. Chapter 30II: Old Town—The Lands
  26. Chapter 31The Parliament Close
  27. Chapter 32Legends
  28. Chapter 33Greyfriars
  29. Chapter 34New Town—Town and Country
  30. Chapter 35VII: The Villa Quarters
  31. Chapter 36VIII: The Calton Hill
  32. Chapter 37Winter and New Year
  33. Chapter 38X: To the Pentland Hills
  34. Chapter 39Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes
  35. Chapter 40A Mountain Town in France
  36. Chapter 41Velay
  37. Chapter 42The Donkey, the Pack, and the Packsaddle
  38. Chapter 43The Green Donkey-Driver
  39. Chapter 44I Have a Goad
  40. Chapter 45Upper Gévaudan
  41. Chapter 46A Camp in the Dark
  42. Chapter 47Cheylard and Luc
  43. Chapter 48Our Lady of the Snows
  44. Chapter 49Father Apollinaris
  45. Chapter 50The Monks
  46. Chapter 51The Boarders
  47. Chapter 52Upper Gévaudan (Continued)
  48. Chapter 53Across the Goulet
  49. Chapter 54A Night Among the Pines
  50. Chapter 55The Country of the Camisards
  51. Chapter 56Across the Lozère
  52. Chapter 57Pont de Montvert
  53. Chapter 58In the Valley of the Tarn
  54. Chapter 59Florac
  55. Chapter 60In the Valley of the Mimente
  56. Chapter 61The Heart of the Country
  57. Chapter 62The Last Day
  58. Chapter 63Farewell, Modestine!
  59. Chapter 64The Amateur Emigrant
  60. Chapter 65The Second Cabin
  61. Chapter 66Early Impressions
  62. Chapter 67Steerage Scenes
  63. Chapter 68Steerage Types
  64. Chapter 69The Sick Man
  65. Chapter 70The Stowaways
  66. Chapter 71Personal Experience and Review
  67. Chapter 72New York
  68. Chapter 73Across the Plains
  69. Chapter 74Leaves from the Notebook of an Emigrant Between New York and San Francisco
  70. Chapter 75The Emigrant Train
  71. Chapter 76The Plains of Nebraska
  72. Chapter 77The Desert of Wyoming
  73. Chapter 78Fellow-Passengers
  74. Chapter 79Despised Races
  75. Chapter 80To the Golden Gates
  76. Chapter 81The Old and New Pacific Capitals
  77. Chapter 82Monterey
  78. Chapter 83The Woods and the Pacific
  79. Chapter 84Mexicans, Americans, and Indians
  80. Chapter 85San Francisco
  81. Chapter 86The Silverado Squatters
  82. Chapter 87In the Valley
  83. Chapter 88Calistoga
  84. Chapter 89II: The Petrified Forest
  85. Chapter 90Napa Wine
  86. Chapter 91IV: The Scot Abroad
  87. Chapter 92With the Children of Israel
  88. Chapter 93To Introduce Mr. Kelmar
  89. Chapter 94II: First Impressions of Silverado
  90. Chapter 95The Return
  91. Chapter 96The Act of Squatting
  92. Chapter 97The Hunter's Family
  93. Chapter 98The Sea Fogs
  94. Chapter 99The Toll House
  95. Chapter 100A Starry Drive
  96. Chapter 101Episodes in the Story of a Mine
  97. Chapter 102Toils and Pleasures
  98. Chapter 103Fontainebleau
  99. Chapter 104I
  100. Chapter 105II
  101. Chapter 106III
  102. Chapter 107IV
  103. Chapter 108V
  104. Chapter 109VI
  105. Chapter 110VII
  106. Chapter 111The Coast of Fife
  107. Chapter 112The Education of an Engineer
  108. Chapter 113Cockermouth and Keswick
  109. Chapter 114Cockermouth
  110. Chapter 115An Evangelist
  111. Chapter 116Another
  112. Chapter 117Last of Smethurst
  113. Chapter 118An Autumn Effect
  114. Chapter 119A Winter’s Walk in Carrick and Galloway
  115. Chapter 120Forest Notes
  116. Chapter 121On the Plain
  117. Chapter 122In the Season
  118. Chapter 123Idle Hours
  119. Chapter 124A Pleasure-Party
  120. Chapter 125The Woods in Spring
  121. Chapter 126Morality
  122. Chapter 127Davos in Winter
  123. Chapter 128Health and Mountains
  124. Chapter 129Alpine Diversions
  125. Chapter 130The Stimulation of the Alps
  126. Chapter 131Roads
  127. Chapter 132On the Enjoyment of Unpleasant Places
  128. Chapter 133Endnotes
  129. Chapter 134List of Illustrations