# Edward Whymper — Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 character guide > Edward Whymper in Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 by Edward Whymper. **Role:** major **Also known as:** myself, I, me, my, mine, the narrator **First appearance:** 0004-scrambles-amongst-the-alps-in-the-years-1860-69 ## Snapshot A restless Victorian engraver turned mountaineer who narrates his own obsessive campaigns across the Alps, chasing unclimbed peaks with scientific curiosity and stubborn nerve. ## Who they are Whymper is the book's narrator and driving ambition, a self-taught climber who treats each unconquered summit as a personal summons. He is by turns lyrical and forensic, pausing to argue glacier stratification with Agassiz and Ball, then confessing the sting of leaving a comrade idle while he scales a celebrated Aiguille. His rivalry with Carrel and his growing fixation on the Matterhorn give the early chapters their forward pull, making every reconnaissance feel like a move in a long, patient game. ## In the story ### [Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/notes-to-the-preface-of-the-fifth-edition) Author, reviser of the text and maps, and observer of changes on the Matterhorn. ### [Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/scrambles-amongst-the-alps-in-the-years-1860-69) The author and narrator, recounting his alpine scrambles and ascents. ### [I: Introductory](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/i-introductory) Narrator and protagonist; recounts his first Alpine tour and a dangerous solo glacier crossing. ### [II: The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/ii-the-ascent-of-mont-pelvoux) Narrator and protagonist; describes his first serious mountain scramble and encounters with locals. ### [The Mont Cenis—The Fell Railway—The Great Tunnel Through the Alps](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/iii-the-mont-cenis-the-fell-railway-the-great-tunnel-through-the-alps) Narrator and observer, travels through Mont Cenis and visits the tunnel works. ### [My First Scramble on the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/iv-my-first-scramble-on-the-matterhorn) Narrator and aspiring mountaineer, describes his first impressions of the Matterhorn and his search for guides. ### [Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/v-renewed-attempts-to-ascend-the-matterhorn) Narrator and climber; makes a solo reconnaissance on the southwest ridge, reaching a record height before turning back. ### [The Val Tournanche—Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt (Breuiljoch)—Zermatt—Ascent of the Grand Tournalin](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/vi-the-val-tournanche-direct-pass-from-breuil-to-zermatt-breuiljoch-zermatt-ascent-of-the-grand-tournalin) Narrator and protagonist; describes his return to Breuil, crossing of the Breuiljoch, and ascent of the Grand Tournalin. ### [VII: Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/vii-our-sixth-attempt-to-ascend-the-matterhorn) Narrator and leader of the expedition, describes the climb and storm. ### [From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/viii-from-st-michel-on-the-mont-cenis-road-by-the-col-des-aiguilles-d-arve-col-de-martignare-and-the-br-che-de-la-meije-to-la-b-rarde) Narrator and leader of the expedition, reflecting on past attempts and planning the current route. ### [IX: The Ascent of the Pointe des Écrins](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/ix-the-ascent-of-the-pointe-des-crins) Narrator and leader of the expedition, describes the ascent and descent of the Écrins. ### [X: On the First Passage of the Col de Pilatte](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/x-on-the-first-passage-of-the-col-de-pilatte) Narrator and leader of the expedition; describes the planning, ascent, and perilous descent of the Col de Pilatte. ### [Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xi-passage-of-the-col-de-triolet-and-first-ascents-of-mont-dolent-aiguille-de-tr-lat-te-and-aiguille-d-argenti-re) Narrator and climber, participates in ascents and surveys with Reilly. ### [XII: The Moming Pass—Zermatt](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xii-the-moming-pass-zermatt) Narrator and leader of the expedition; advocates for a southern route but defers to Croz's plan, later regrets the dangerous ice-slope crossing. ### [XIII: The First Ascent of the Grand Cornier](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xiii-the-first-ascent-of-the-grand-cornier) Narrator and leader of the 1865 season; reflects on his mountaineering philosophy and route selection. ### [The Ascent of the Dent Blanche](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xiv-the-ascent-of-the-dent-blanche) Leader of the expedition; decides to attempt the Dent Blanche, navigates the ascent and descent, and later meets Kennedy. ### [Lost on the Col d'Hérens—My Seventh Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xv-lost-on-the-col-d-h-rens-my-seventh-attempt-to-ascend-the-matterhorn) Narrator and leader; proposed the new eastern-face route and made the decision to retreat when lost on the Col d'Hérens. ### [The Valley of Aosta, and Ascent of the Grandes Jorasses](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xvi-the-valley-of-aosta-and-ascent-of-the-grandes-jorasses) Whymper presents his own observations and reasoning, arguing that the Valley of Aosta and other Alpine valleys were not excavated by glaciers but only slightly modified. ### [The First Passage of the Col Dolent](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xvii-the-first-passage-of-the-col-dolent) Leader and narrator; sketches the view while guides work; descends the icy staircase and joins the others. ### [XVIII: Ascent of the Aiguille Verte](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xviii-ascent-of-the-aiguille-verte) Narrator and leader of the ascent of the Aiguille Verte. ### [XIX: The First Passage of the Col de Talèfre](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xix-the-first-passage-of-the-col-de-tal-fre) Narrator and leader of the first passage of the Col de Talèfre. ### [XX: The First Ascent of the Ruinette—The Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xx-the-first-ascent-of-the-ruinette-the-matterhorn) Narrator and leader of the expedition; plans the ascent of the Matterhorn via the east face. ### [The First Ascent of the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xxi-the-first-ascent-of-the-matterhorn) Leader of the expedition, describes the ascent and the emotional moment of reaching the summit. ### [Descent of the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/xxii-descent-of-the-matterhorn) Narrator and survivor; organizes descent, sketches summit, ties on last, witnesses fall, and reflects on tragedy. ### [Subsequent History of the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/c-subsequent-history-of-the-matterhorn) Describes revisiting the tent-platform in 1874, 1876, and 1892, noting its decay and the fall of the inscribed rock. ### [D: Table of Attempts Made to Ascend the Matterhorn Previous to the First Ascent](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/d-table-of-attempts-made-to-ascend-the-matterhorn-previous-to-the-first-ascent) Made attempts 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, and 14, often alone or with guides. ### [E: Ascents of the Matterhorn](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/e-ascents-of-the-matterhorn) Participant in the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 and later ascent for photography in 1874. ### [G: Stratification of Snow and Formation of Glacier-Ice](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/g-stratification-of-snow-and-formation-of-glacier-ice) Author and expedition leader; supervised the excavation, took measurements, and suffered snow-blindness. ### [H: Denudation in the Valley of the Durance](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/h-denudation-in-the-valley-of-the-durance) Narrator and observer; scrambles up to examine the pinnacles and deduces their glacial origin. ### [Endnotes](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/endnotes) Author and narrator; reflects on his fall, memory loss, and botanical collections. ### [List of Illustrations](https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/chapters/list-of-illustrations) Author and central figure; many illustrations relate to his expeditions. ## Links - HTML: https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/characters/edward_whymper - Book: https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se - All characters: https://www.betterreads.dev/discover/scrambles_amongst_the_alps_in_the_years_1860_69_se/characters